Engine Rebuild Checklist — 20 Items to Verify Before You Start

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Phase 1: Inspection

Before you spend a dollar

Compression test — all cylinders

Record psi on a dry run and wet test. Within 10% across all cylinders.
Leak-down test — all cylinders

Listen for bypass at rings, valves, and head gasket. Below 10% is healthy.
Main bearing clearance check

Plastigauge on every main cap. Document runout before tear-down.
Deck flatness measurement

Straight-edge and feeler gauge at 4 points per cylinder. Warp over 0.003" needs surfacing.
Cam bearing condition

Inspect for scoring, metal flaking, or oil starvation marks. Replace if questionable.
Rod big end clearance

Plastigauge rod caps before unbolting. Worn bearings mask other problems.

Michael's Tip

Most people skip the leak-down test. It's the one check that tells you whether you're rebuilding a good block or chasing a cracked casting. Run it before you commit to anything.

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Phase 2: Disassembly

Do it right so you can do it once

Photo documentation — every angle

Before you pull a single bolt: top, bottom, sides, clearances. 100+ photos minimum.
Labelling strategy — thread direction, position

Label every cap, every rocker, every lifter with its position in the engine. No guessing at assembly.
Hardware inspection vs replacement log

Every bolt, stud, and cap gets inspected. List what gets replaced vs reused. Eliminates "I thought that was fine" at assembly.

Michael's Tip

I number every rod cap with a paint pen before I pull it. The crank shop will thank you, and you won't spend 20 minutes hunting for the right rod on reassembly.

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Phase 3: Machine Shop

The work that makes or breaks reliability

Deck surfacing — verify flatness after

After surfacing, recheck with a straight-edge. Every machine shop makes mistakes.
Bore honing — cross-hatch angle and finish

60-degree cross-hatch, 20-30 Ra finish for street engines. Demand documentation from the shop.
Crank grind — bearing journal finish and clearance

Minimum 20 Ra finish, verify with Plastigauge before the crank leaves your shop.
Valve job type — intake vs exhaust specs

Know what valve job your heads need before you drop them off. 3-angle for performance, 2-angle for stock.

Michael's Tip

Never let a machine shop skip the crank finish spec. A rough journal from a cheap grind will eat a new bearing in 500 miles. The spec is non-negotiable: 20 Ra minimum.

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Phase 4: Assembly

Where precision pays off

Main cap torque sequence — documented

3-stage torque for most mains: initial, intermediate, final. Follow manufacturer spec, not memory.
Rod cap torque — ARP fastener upgrade if needed

If stock bolts are questionable, upgrade to ARP main studs or rod bolts at this stage.
Head bolt torque sequence — from center out

Torque in 3 rounds: 30%, 65%, 100%. Start from center and spiral outward on each pass.
Break-in procedure — oil, cam prep, first 500 miles

Zinc-loaded break-in oil, no synthetic for first 500 miles. No sustained high rpm. Heat cycles matter.
First-start checklist — pressure, temps, leaks, sounds

Monitor oil pressure and coolant temp for 10 minutes. Listen for abnormal knock, tick, or rasp. Check for external leaks.

Michael's Tip

Most break-in failures happen in the first 60 seconds — not enough oil pressure at startup due to a skipped priming step. Prime the oil system before you turn the key. It's a 2-minute step that saves a $2,000 mistake.

CrankForge Pre-Rebuild Checklist